Arnhem Land is certainly an adventure
It starts with the Central Arnhem Road on the way in (around 600k of dirt road), continues through the amazing rivers, creeks, and beaches you can camp at (and some you can even swim at, though always be aware you’re in croc country), and culminates with the welcoming Yolngu people who are proud to share their culture and lifestyle.
Actually – the adventure starts before that. When you have to get your permits. The permit system can be confusing.
You need an Access Permit from Dhimurru Aboriginal Corporation to allow entry to the area and the campsites around Nhulumbuy. This one was easy to obtain on line.
You also need a Transit Permit from the Northern Land Council to drive the Central Arnhem Road. I had to go into the Northern Land Council in Katherine to get their help with the transit permit. After that I helped others who were also having difficulty navigating the system.
All the information says you also need a camping permit for the Dhimurru camping sites, but that’s actually included in the fee when you book the sites. You have no idea how long it took me to work that out.
If you want to take alcohol into the area, or buy any takeaway alcohol while you’re there, you will also need a Liquor Permit. That’s available through the Northern Territory Government website. You WILL be asked for it when you try to buy alcohol.
Both the Transit Permit and the Liquor Permit are free. The Access Permit has a reasonable cost. The camping permit is part of your campsite fee.
A big question I had, and others have, is can you travel to and through Arnhem Land by yourself? Or do you need to book a tour or something.
The answer is yes. You can do it by yourself.
I did a lot of research first, but I still wasn’t sure where I wanted to go or what I wanted to do.
The Dhimurru Aboriginal Corporation in Nhulunbuy is fabulous. They obviously know the area well and can help you with all your bookings – for campsites and cultural experiences. Put it on your list as one of the first places to visit.
Most of the camping areas are basic bush camping. Some have drop toilets. They are all clean, maintained, and have fire pits. I camped right on the beach a few times and woke up to amazing sunrises. Because of the way the coastline is, I also had amazing sunsets over the ocean. Sometimes on the same day.
I drove 5k along a very soft sandy beach to get to one place where I camped right on the beach and watched the resident 5m croc come up and sit on the sand. And where I also swam at the next beach along. That was fun.
That’s the same place where I sat on a mat, in the shade of a big tree, while some of the women taught me to weave, they explained the importance of weaving in their culture, and how it’s all done, and we talked women’s business.
I watched Yolngu men fishing with spears. Always successfully! Which is more than I can say for a lot of the people I’ve seen fishing with thousands of dollars worth of equipment 😅
There is a Woolworths supermarket in Nhulunbuy and their prices are the same as any other Woolworths. Courtesy of Nhulunbuy being a mining town. Though the mine is due to close very soon and Woolworths have already flagged that they will be closing down when the mine does.
I spent 12 days in East Arnhem Land and didn’t get to anywhere near as much as I wanted. But you are constrained by how long your permit is for. So when applying don’t underestimate how long you’ll be there.
I was also there at the beginning of the build up. It was hot. High 30s every day. Camping on the beach the sand was too hot to walk on for hours in the middle of the day, and you can’t swim in the ocean, or even most rivers. There are crocodiles and sharks that want to kill you.
Though when I was with locals I swam at the beaches. They knew where it was safe and where it wasn’t. That’s what comes from thousands of years of occupation and living alongside apex predators.
Would I go again? In a heartbeat. I’d love to spend more time sitting with local women, on mats in the shade. Weaving and talking women’s business. And living a slower, calmer, life.
Though not so calm that you don’t stand your ground and stick up for your rights. The Yolngu are famous for that. After all, that’s where the Gama festival is held. Where even prime ministers turn up to listen.
