Some of the best places I’ve found have been because I stuck a pin in a map, and this one is no different.
On my first trip to outback Queensland with my ex we were travelling down the backroads from Winton, through Jundah, and down though Quilpie. We pulled up one night and were deciding where to go the next day. I looked at the map, saw “Mud Springs” and decided that looked good.
That took us to Eulo and the best outback mudbath experience I’ve had. I still try to finish every outback trip at Eulo.
This time I’d come from Wellington and was sitting by the road at the top of Lake Alexandrina. It was 41 degrees and I was hot. I wanted somewhere I could cool off. I looked at the map, saw Milang sitting right on the lake, and decided if nothing else I could at least go for a swim.
Now I’m in the caravan park in Milang, camped on grass. Grass! I haven’t camped on grass for I don’t know how long. I’m sitting here with a glass of champagne, looking at the lake directly in front of me. I’ve been for a swim 4 times so far this afternoon.
Birds are flying around everywhere. Corellas, galahs, magpies, even black cockatoos. They are deafening. And beautiful. Except for the ones that sat in the trees above me and shat on my swag!
I went for a walk through the park to see what was here. Nothing much. Quite a few permanent vans, a toilet block. No pool. No playground. Nothing special. But it is special.
My walk took 3 times as long as it should have because every single person I came across stopped and talked with me. I don’t mean just nodded hello, actually had a chat.
I’ve been invited for drinks, to see people’s set ups, to come and have a chat. I’ve had mechanics recommended to me across Australia if I need them “just mention my name”. I’ve been invited to visit and stay with people at their real homes.
If everybody who offered to make me coffee in the morning delivers I will be buzzing for days.
And I can have a shower. With clean water! Luxury!!
This is the sort of place you really don’t come across very often, or in many places.
Tomorrow I’m going to the pub for lunch. If I don’t see devon rolls with mashed potato on the menu I’m going to be disappointed.
Day 2 at Milang
Well, I’m still in Milang, still camping in the caravan park by the lake. The woman in the van next to me has a coffee machine in her van, so she made me coffee this morning. With French Vanilla.
Milang is only small, though not so small that it’s identified with the smallest type in the map book (yes, I still travel with paper maps). It’s probably the second smallest type.
After an early morning walk along the lake, watching the sunrise and the birds all coming to life, and after having coffee with the woman next door, I decided to go for a walk through town.
In the strip of shops on the main road there’s a chemist, a grocery shop which also has a licenced café attached, a takeaway food place, and a curtain place of all things. And, of course, the pub. Around the corner there’s a bakery. There’s also a bowlo, a post office and a mechanic if you need one.
When I went for my walk the pub wasn’t open, and it had a sign on the door “Closed. To hot.” You know it’s hot when the pub doesn’t open because of the heat! Though lucky it wasn’t as hot today so the pub did eventually open. But not for lunch. They don’t open until 2pm.
There’s also a really nice walk through the (currently dry) wetlands.
By the time I walked through the wetlands, walked around town looking at the old buildings and reading all the information about them, and stopped for a chat with two blokes having coffee at the bakery, it was time for lunch.
As the pub wasn’t open yet, and the weather was much cooler I decided to cook. I know I’m in the minority, but I actually enjoy cooking while I’m camping. I prefer to cook on the campfire, but if I can’t do that then I have a single butane stove. If I’m making a dish that requires two pans, then I have to cook them one after the other, but c’est la vie. It’s sometimes challenging, but it’s fun. I travel with more herbs & spices and other cooking essentials than some people have in their kitchens.
Today’s lunch dish was chilli ginger vegetables & tofu with a mix of jasmine & wild rice. Served with a chilled Adelaide Hills sauvignon blanc. It was delicious!
I did eventually get to the pub, which was populated with some local ‘old timers’. We sat & discussed the state of the Murray River and it was all very amicable until one of them said “We should get Trump over here. He’ll fix it.”
Everybody went quiet, then as one we chose to ignore it and carry on our conversation.
The next morning it got windy so I decided it was time to move on. I packed everything up and went for a walk up to the café to see if it was open. It wasn’t yet 7am, and the café wasn’t open, but there was a bloke in there cleaning and sorting out groceries. When he saw me he opened the door and made me a cup of coffee. It was great coffee, and I sat by the window in the sunshine, watching the sun over the lake.
It was a great place.
But now – it’s time for a few days by the beach I think. Time to replace the river mud in my hair and on my skin with ocean salt.
My favourite place? There were three:
Swan Reach
I camped in the free camping area by the river. It was very peaceful. A few people came in and out, but all were there for the peace and serenity so were all quiet. I had a nice sandy beach right next to me where I could get in and out of the river and the water was quite clear. And it was an easy walk and ferry ride across the river to the pub and café, and nice walks. There’s a toilet at the camping area.
The only problem was it’s not very protected, and it did get windy.
Merbein Common
Quiet, peaceful, secluded bush camping. It was so peaceful and quiet that I could skinny dip in the river and lie naked in the sun/shade, and I did. It was also a short 5 minute drive into town if I needed supplies. I enjoyed it so much I stayed for a few days and was quite sad to leave.
There were absolutely no problems with this camping spot. It was bliss. I will remember this one for a long time.
Milang
Unexpected. Friendly, pretty, right on the lake so great views and nice beaches to swim. The birdlife was amazing! The caravan park was basic but clean and everyone was very friendly. The shower blocks smelled beautiful and had piped music.
