There are advantages to travelling in the off season. Having a place all to yourself is definitely one of them.
I decided rather than head up to Darwin I’d leave Kakadu down towards Katherine. On the way out I’d visit Gunlom.
Now I’m sure anybody who has Instagram has seen Gunlom. A natural infinity pool at Kakadu. Probably the most photographed place in Kakadu, after Cahill’s Crossing.
So of course, I had to go.
I arrived about 2.30 in the afternoon. It was hot. 38o. The carpark was almost full, with people milling about everywhere. Some were just about to start the walk, some were coming back, and some were at the falls at the top.
It’s not a long walk, only about 650m, but almost straight up. And in the afternoon it’s in the sun.
Not my idea of fun.
And the pool at the bottom of the fall was closed because of a big croc lurking around. So there was nowhere at all to swim.
So I decided to camp up and wait until early the next morning when it was a bit cooler.
By late afternoon the place had cleared out, and two other groups had arrived to camp. That’s ok, it’s a big camp ground and they all left plenty of space between us.
So I got up at 6.30 to start the walk up all those stairs. While it was still cool and still shaded. There was nobody else around, and nobody climbing with me.
Still, it’s a walk almost straight up. At least, I thought, it will be all downhill on the way back. Hahaha. No, once you get to the top there are 101 steps (yes, I counted them) back down to the pools themselves. Stairs you have to climb back up again on the way back.
I got to the pools and there was nobody there. I had the place to myself.
Now, just for clarity, “infinity pool” just means “the top of the waterfall”. Which also means you’re at a height. Lucky the infinity pool flows into another pool before the sheer drop a few hundred metres into the pool below.
But I ignored all that and made the most of it. For an hour and a half I swam or sat at the edge of the pool just looking at the view and listening to the sounds of the countryside coming awake.
I skinny dipped, constantly thinking somebody was going to come up and catch me.
But nobody did.
It was bliss!
Even on the walk back down I didn’t pass anybody going up.
When I got to the campground the other two groups were just leaving. I had that to myself as well. I can’t think of a better reason to have a champagne breakfast!
It was bliss. I’m glad I went. A perfect way to finish my Kakadu adventure.
Though I’d still like to get a permit for West Arnhem Land. Yes, I want to drive across Cahills Crossing, but there was a piece of fabric that I loved, that I really wish I’d bought at Injalak Arts Centre. Maybe next time.
